Oaxaca: A Street Food Paradise
Oaxaca, Mexico, is renowned for its rich culture, stunning landscapes, and, most importantly, its incredible cuisine. While fine dining establishments offer a refined taste of Oaxacan flavors, the true heart of the region's culinary scene lies in its vibrant street food. From savory tlayudas to refreshing tejate, the streets of Oaxaca are a treasure trove of delicious and affordable eats. Prepare your taste buds for an unforgettable adventure as we explore some of the best street food Oaxaca has to offer.
Must-Try Oaxacan Street Food
Tlayudas: The Oaxacan Pizza
Often referred to as the "Oaxacan pizza," the tlayuda is a massive, thin, and crispy tortilla that serves as the base for a variety of toppings. Typically, it's smeared with asiento (unrefined pork lard), refried beans, lettuce or cabbage, Oaxaca cheese, avocado, salsa, and your choice of meat, such as tasajo (thinly sliced grilled beef), chorizo, or cecina (pork marinated in chili powder). The sheer size and explosion of flavors make it a must-try for any visitor. Look for tlayudas at night markets like the one near the baseball stadium, where vendors grill them fresh to order.
Memelas: Simple and Satisfying
Memelas are thick, oval-shaped tortillas that are toasted on a comal (griddle) and topped with various ingredients. A classic memela features asiento, refried beans, queso fresco, and salsa. You can also find them topped with chorizo, tasajo, or other meats. The simplicity of the memela allows the flavors of the ingredients to shine through, making it a comforting and satisfying snack or light meal. They are commonly found in markets and smaller street stalls throughout the city.
Tamales Oaxaqueños: Wrapped in Flavor
Tamales are a staple throughout Mexico, but the Oaxacan version is particularly special. Oaxacan tamales, or "tamales oaxaqueños," are steamed in banana leaves instead of corn husks, which imparts a unique aroma and flavor to the corn dough. They are typically filled with mole negro (a rich, complex sauce made with chilies, chocolate, and spices), chicken, or pork. The banana leaf wrapping keeps the tamale moist and adds a subtle sweetness. Find vendors selling tamales in the mornings and evenings, often near churches or in busy pedestrian areas.
Elotes and Esquites: Corn on (and off) the Cob
Elotes and esquites are popular street food snacks made with corn. Elotes are grilled corn on the cob, typically slathered with mayonnaise, cotija cheese, chili powder, and lime juice. Esquites are kernels of corn cut off the cob and served in a cup with similar toppings. Both are delicious and refreshing snacks, perfect for a hot day. You'll find elote and esquite vendors on almost every corner, especially in the evenings.
Chapulines: A Crunchy Delicacy
For the adventurous eater, chapulines (grasshoppers) are a Oaxacan delicacy. These crunchy critters are toasted with chili powder, lime juice, and salt. They are a surprisingly addictive snack, with a slightly smoky and earthy flavor. While the idea of eating grasshoppers might seem daunting, they are a good source of protein and a traditional part of Oaxacan cuisine. You can find chapulines in markets and from street vendors throughout the city. Start with a small bag and see if you like them!
Mole: The King of Oaxacan Cuisine
While mole is not strictly street food, you'll often find variations of it served in portable formats. Mole is a complex sauce made with chilies, spices, chocolate, and other ingredients. Oaxaca is known for its seven different types of mole, each with its own unique flavor profile. You might find mole negro served with chicken in a tlayuda or enchilada, or mole coloradito served with empanadas. Don't leave Oaxaca without trying at least one type of mole!
Tejate: The Drink of the Gods
Tejate is a pre-Hispanic beverage made from corn, cacao beans, flor de cacao (cacao flower), and pixtle (roasted mamey seed). It's a refreshing and slightly frothy drink that's perfect for cooling down on a hot day. Tejate has a unique flavor that's both earthy and slightly sweet. It's traditionally served in a gourd and is a must-try for anyone interested in Oaxacan culture and cuisine. Look for tejate vendors in the markets, especially the Mercado 20 de Noviembre.
Nieves: Oaxacan Ice Cream
Nieves are a type of traditional Mexican ice cream that are made with water, sugar, and fresh fruit. Oaxacan nieves are particularly known for their unique and exotic flavors, such as rose petal, mezcal, and grasshopper (yes, really!). They are a refreshing and delicious treat, especially on a hot day. Head to the zocalo (main square) to find a variety of nieves vendors.
Marquesitas: A Crispy Crepe Treat
Originally from Yucatan, Marquesitas have become a popular street food in Oaxaca as well. These crispy crepes are filled with shredded Edam cheese, Nutella, and other sweet fillings. The combination of the salty cheese and the sweet Nutella is surprisingly delicious. You'll find marquesita vendors in the evenings, often near the zocalo or in other popular gathering spots.
Where to Find the Best Street Food in Oaxaca
Mercado 20 de Noviembre: A Food Lover's Paradise
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is one of the largest and most popular markets in Oaxaca. It's a great place to find a wide variety of street food, from tlayudas and memelas to tamales and chapulines. Be sure to check out the "Pasillo de Humo" (Hall of Smoke), where you can choose your own meat and have it grilled to order.
Mercado Benito Juárez: Another Great Option
Mercado Benito Juárez is another large market in Oaxaca that offers a wide variety of street food. It's a bit more touristy than Mercado 20 de Noviembre, but it's still a great place to find delicious and affordable eats.
The Streets Around the Zocalo: Always Something Delicious
The streets surrounding the zocalo (main square) are always bustling with activity and are a great place to find street food vendors. You'll find everything from elotes and esquites to marquesitas and nieves.
Night Markets: A Culinary Adventure
Oaxaca has several night markets that offer a unique street food experience. The night market near the baseball stadium is particularly known for its tlayudas, while other night markets offer a variety of other Oaxacan specialties.
Tips for Enjoying Oaxacan Street Food
Be Adventurous: Try New Things!
Oaxacan street food is all about exploring new flavors and textures. Don't be afraid to try something you've never had before. You might be surprised at what you discover.
Ask Locals for Recommendations
Locals are the best source of information when it comes to finding the best street food. Ask your hotel staff, tour guide, or other locals for their recommendations.
Look for Busy Stalls
Stalls that are busy with locals are usually a good sign that the food is delicious and fresh.
Be Mindful of Hygiene
While most street food vendors in Oaxaca maintain good hygiene standards, it's always a good idea to be mindful. Look for vendors who are wearing gloves and keeping their food covered.
Carry Small Bills
Street food vendors typically only accept cash, so be sure to carry small bills with you.